14/06 From Skardu by jeep to Askole
Distance of 120 km.
4 landslides.
Two times road was washed away by the river. In between four pick up jeeps
carried loads and people. 30 min walk to campsite at Askole.
Weighing the loads. 25 kg per porter.
96 porters and 16 donkeys will carry our expedition load.
15/06 Askole (3050m) to Johla (3150m)
The 21 km we managed in 7 hours. Half way we had lunch at Korophon.
Just before reaching the lunch spot a big river had to be crossed. The water
was very, very cold and our underwear got wet. Further up the trail we met
David Lama and his film team who are on the way to Masherbrum.
h116/06 Johla (3150m) to Paiju (3400m)
Today we got up at 4:30 and reached Paiju at 13:30. Lunchplace was near
Bardumal.. The whole day it was rainy. For hiking the 22km we needed 7
hours.
In the afternoon the sun came out.
17/06 Restday at Paiju (3400m)
Today the porters prepared their foof for the upcoming days on the glacier.
They got flour to bake chapaties and two goats.
Some of the AMICAL members went up to a view point (3650m) their K2 and
Broad Peak is visible. I checked the route to the glacier.
It was a warm and sunny day without wind.
18/06 Paiju (3400m) to Urdokas (4050m)
From midnight on it was raining. We got up at 4:00 and waited until 6:00
when the rain stopped. After one hour we reached the Baltoro Glacier, which
we had to cross to the other side. We passed camp Liligo and had lunch at
camp Korbuche. At 15:30 we reached Urdokas in light snowfall.
This day was the hardest day of the trek: 21 km, 900 Hm, 8 h
19/06 Urdokas (4050m) to Gore II (4300m)
We started at 5:45 together with David Lama who went to the NO-wall of
Masherbrum. We had an early lunch at Gore I and reached Gore II at 13:30.
In the afternoon I had to treat around 20 porters with health problems.
The 14 km we did in 5,5 h.
20/06 Gore II (4300m) to Shagrin (4750m) via Konkordia (4600m)
Start at 6:00 with perfect weather. Soon Broad Peak was visible and then at
Konkordia K2 came in our sight. After lunch we crossed Konkordia and turned
in direction to Chogolisa (several crevasses). At 15:00 we reached Shagrin
( 20 km / 8 h).
21/06 Shagrin (4750m) to Gasherbrum I & II BC (5050m)
Early in the morning at 4:30 I started with HAP Ali to look for a good place
for our basecamp. After two hours walking we turned left on the middle
morain of the Abruzi Glacier. From 5000m on there are campsites. We were
looking for a place close to the icefall and flat enough for setting up our
dome tent. There was already a small camp on the morain which belonged to
Artur Haizer and his climbing partner (Poland). Just above their campsite we
found the site of our basecamp for this season. An hour later the first
porters arrived. Finally 82 porters and 15 donkeys reached BC. The members
of AMICAL needed 4 h for the 12km from Shagrin and arrived at 10:00.
Artur Haizer [*] RIP
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