Samstag, 27. April 2013
next day we will climb up to Camp 2 (7000m) and set up 5 tents. On 30/04 we
will try to stay over night at Camp2 and on 01/05 ski down to ABC. With
this trip our acclimatisation for Shisha Pangma will be finished.
The first summits are expected on April 30th. Alix, Luis and Rupert (of our
AMICAL group) will participate in this international summit push via the
Inaki route. Thumbs up !
In the moment there are high winds on summit level (see picture) . Low winds
are predicted for 30/04 and 01/05.
Friends and relatives who want to reach us, can send a text message to:
shisha email@example.com ( pls only text , no photos or pictures)
Via the Globalfinder you can find out our actual position.
Freitag, 26. April 2013
Here a short review of the last days:
Mo 22-04 : We started together with our two sherpas from ABC to establish
our glacier depot on one side of the icefall. After setting up a tent the
AMICAL clients skied back to ABC. The two sherpas and me started to search
for a route through the icefall. Because of my Shisha Pangma Exped. 3 years
ago I had a rough idea about the route. After two hours i found a perfect
way through the seracs to the other side of the icefall without any climbing
or abseiling. On the other side of the icefall we set up a tent - the future
Glacier Camp of AMICAL nd returned to ABC.
Tu 23-04 : The whole group with big backpacks climbed up to Glacier Camp
(5850m), set up 3 more tents and stayed over night.
We 24-04 : With touring skis we climbed up to 6350m and established our Camp
Th 25-04 : In the morning with build snow walls arround our camp and fixed
the tents in addition with 50 m rope, to make everything safe for high
winds. In the afternoon we went for a ski tour up to 6650 m . With now wind,
a beautifull afternoon sun and good powder we skied back to Camp1
Fr 26-04: A good night sleep ended at 8:00. At 9:00 we skied down to Glacier
Camp, stored our skis and crossed the icefall. On the other side we changed
the boots and walked back to ABC. At 13:00 we arrived there and 30min later
we got a perfect lunch with beer and coca cola. For dinner our cook
presented pizza and a birthday cake for Christoph who got 31years old.
Since Monday we had perfect weather on the mountain, almost no wind and
sunshine the whole day. Now the forecast says higher windsfor the next three
days. Tomorrow we will have a rest day. Day after tomorrow we will start our
second (and last) acclimatisation round.
2 x icefall crossing
2 x skiing in 6600m
up to 6700m. This morning we skied down to Glacier Camp, changed boots,
crossed the icefall and walked back to ABC. The pictures show the location
of Camp 1.
Sonntag, 21. April 2013
the glacier. Thomas and the climbing sherpaswill cross the glacier and set
up a Glacier Camp.
On Thuesday the whole group will climb from ABC to Glacier Camp for
On Wednesday we will climb up to Camp 1 and set up 5 tents and stay over
On Thursday we will ski (hopefully in perfect Himalayan powder) down to ABC.
stored our skis. The snow is melting from day to day. in the following days
we will start from ABC to this tent with hiking boots. At the tent we will
change to skiboots and touring skis.
lasted almost 2 h on a windy hill above our campsite. We had beer, coke,
rakji and a lot of sweets. Every member of the expedition got a string
arround his/her neck from the Lama of Kathmandu. This was the official start
of the expedition. Now the climbing sherpas can enter the upper area of the
mountain (the seat of god) without fears.
Samstag, 20. April 2013
this morning with skis. We are still the first group "working" on the
mountain. At about 5750m we made a cache with 4 tents and skied back to ABC.
Tomorrow we will have our Puja.
After the Puja the climbing sherpas will help us setting up the camps.
On Tuesday we probably have our first night in glacier camp and will set up
Camp 1 the following day.
the prominent rock (gendarm) on the ridge. From this rock the normal route
starts to trafers over to the main summit of Shisha Pangma (maybe in 3
Freitag, 19. April 2013
already have set up some tents and at 8pm we got our nepalese dal bat. This
morning we woke up with nice sunshine already at 6am. In the afternoon we
set up our Mountain Hardwear Dome. Tomorrow we will start with skis towards
the glacier crossing there we will make a depot.
I will send some pictures tomorrow. Now its very, very ... cold. I hardly
can print without mittens.
ABC Shisha Pangma
Mittwoch, 17. April 2013
arround. Tomorrow morning we will climb to ABC (5600m), the real starting
point of the expedition. Due to the big amount of snow we will start already
from CBC with touring skis and hope to reach ABC in the late afternoon.
Pasang is still up there prepearing the tent spots.
Dienstag, 16. April 2013
in the moment sun is shining in my tent. Outside everything is frozen.
The view to the snow covered Shisha Pangma is perfect.
Here a short review about the things happened in the last days:
13/04 From Nyalam we drove with the jeeps to Lalung Le pass. From there
we wanted to drive to Shisha Pangma BC. From our Sherpas we already new that
to the so called Chineses Basecamp (CBC) was blocked by snow. When turning
left from the main road into the Shisha Pangma valley snow started to cover
the gravel road. We had to dig out the van with the equipment 5 times.
Finally we reached the place of the CBC late in the afternoon. We set up
6 tents and the kitchen tent before it got dark. We were the firast
expedition reaching this place
14/04 After discussing with the Liason Officer Nawang, two yakmen, my
sherpa Pemba and me started to check out the route to ABC. After 12 km and
an altitude of 5450m we had to stop due to too much snow. The yakmen told me
there is now way for the yaks to go further.
In the evening we discussed the problem with the LO.
The new idea was to send yaks without load to open the route to ABC. TMA
would pay for that.
15/04 Two more expedition arrive to CBC. To help opening the route every
expedition will send a climbing sherpa with shovel. In the evening 9 yaks
and 4 yakmen arrive to CBC.
16/04 At 7:30 the group with 9 yaks, 4 yakmen and 3 sherpas left. The goal
is to reach ABC. If not possible today they will try again tomorrow from
Middle Camp (5400m). Pasang will call me at 13:00 and at 17:00
to tell if it is possible to reach ABC. If possible we will order our
yaks in the evening. The plan is to leave for ABC on 18/04. Lets hope they
can open the route.
Greetings from Chinese BC Shisha Pangma (5035m)
Samstag, 13. April 2013
ARRIVED AT CHIN BC 5035m = LOT OF SNOW = DIGGED OUT TRUCK 5 x
210047 has sent this message on: 13-04-2013 14:27:04 UTC
from position: latitude 28.5874°, longitude 85.76212°, altitude 4987m
You are welcomed to check 210047 shared track Shisha Pangma Expedition.
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