It took us more effort than expected to set up camp 2 on top of the "banana
ridge"
On July 01st we climbed up to C1 in bad weather. The next day the weather
did not improve. We hang arround in our tents eating and sleeping the whole
day. Next morning Thomas left at 4.00 to fix the rest of the "banana -
ridge". Last time he already fixed 600m. Due to the new snow and the ice
underneath, the climb got very difficult. Just before reaching the top the
rock Thomas couldn`t find holds for his iceaxes in the 60° steep wall. It
took him almost 2h to reach the top. From top of the ridge a narrow knife
edged ridge was leading to a serac, after a 20 m repell he reached easy
terrain. The group members of AMICAL started at 7:00 from C1 and had to hang
arround at a flat place on the ridge for 3 hours. By 16:00 they reached the
flat area behind the serac. There they set up a tent and stored their
equipment. after taht everyone repelled 1000m down to C1.
On July 03rd the HAP`s started at 5:00 to fix the last (easy) 100m up to
Camp 2 and set up 6 tents. We started at 7:00 and reached our new camp 2
(6530m) at 11:00. The total rope fixed (by AMICAL) to C2 was 1200m. The
HAP`s descended down to C1 and the next day to BC.
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