Freitag, 26. April 2013
Setting up CAMP 1 - 6350m
Here a short review of the last days:
Mo 22-04 : We started together with our two sherpas from ABC to establish
our glacier depot on one side of the icefall. After setting up a tent the
AMICAL clients skied back to ABC. The two sherpas and me started to search
for a route through the icefall. Because of my Shisha Pangma Exped. 3 years
ago I had a rough idea about the route. After two hours i found a perfect
way through the seracs to the other side of the icefall without any climbing
or abseiling. On the other side of the icefall we set up a tent - the future
Glacier Camp of AMICAL nd returned to ABC.
Tu 23-04 : The whole group with big backpacks climbed up to Glacier Camp
(5850m), set up 3 more tents and stayed over night.
We 24-04 : With touring skis we climbed up to 6350m and established our Camp
Th 25-04 : In the morning with build snow walls arround our camp and fixed
the tents in addition with 50 m rope, to make everything safe for high
winds. In the afternoon we went for a ski tour up to 6650 m . With now wind,
a beautifull afternoon sun and good powder we skied back to Camp1
Fr 26-04: A good night sleep ended at 8:00. At 9:00 we skied down to Glacier
Camp, stored our skis and crossed the icefall. On the other side we changed
the boots and walked back to ABC. At 13:00 we arrived there and 30min later
we got a perfect lunch with beer and coca cola. For dinner our cook
presented pizza and a birthday cake for Christoph who got 31years old.
Since Monday we had perfect weather on the mountain, almost no wind and
sunshine the whole day. Now the forecast says higher windsfor the next three
days. Tomorrow we will have a rest day. Day after tomorrow we will start our
second (and last) acclimatisation round.
2 x icefall crossing
2 x skiing in 6600m