Donnerstag, 2. Mai 2013
30. April : AMICAL achieves first summits of the year on Shisha Pangma
achieved the first summits this year of Shisha Pangma main summit via the
Amical summiters were Alix Melle, Luis Stitzinger, Rupert Hauer and myselfe,
Everyone started at the bottom of Camp 3 (7100m). Whereas I had to start at
Camp 2 (6900m), 2h away from the base of C3.
On 29th I established our Camp 2 together with the sherpas and two members
of the main AMICAL group. Sherpas and members went down to Camp1 for
overnight. I stayed at Camp 2 and wanted to check out the different summit
routes next morning. On 30th members and sherpas were supposed to climb up
to Camp 2 again for overnight and finishing the acclimatisation.
On 30th at 2.30 in the morning I started with skis via the corridor towards
the base of C3. By 4.00 I began to climb the ice wall up to C3. Then I
skied over to the big couloir of the Inaki route. Because it was early in
the morning I decided to climb up the Inaki route to the summit. At 14:00 I
reached the summit together with Alix and Luis. From below the summit I
skied back to Camp 2, where I met my group at 16:00.
The next day we all together skied and walked down to ABC.
Now we are in ABC and waiting for a "weather window" which allows us to
climb Shisha Pangma via the normal route. All members have been 6 nights in
high camps and have slept at 6950m. The acclimatisation is perfect !
Thomas Laemmle (sponsored by Sherpa Adventure Gear) on the main summit of
Shish Pangma. In the background the other two (lower) summits of Shisha
Pangma which are normally climbed via the normal route.